Collar manufacture



Jul 13,1926.

J. KAHN COLLAR MANUFACTURE Filed April 13, 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet l M Jim i July 13 1 926.

J. K AHN- 001mm MAN FACT E Filed April 15, 1926 .2 sneeis sneat 2 /1! Skim Z5 2 My, 971M161 relen ed Jilly 13, 1926.

eaten JOSEPH KAHN, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

COLLAR MANUFACTURE.

Application filed April 13, 1926. Serial No. 101,660.

The invention relates to the manufacture of collars and more particularly to the production of collars having desired decorative or ornamental edects, so arranged that the design, or an essential part thereof, comprises an ornamental stripe or similar configuration which extends parallel to the curved lower edge of the face portion of thecollar. The invention comprises certain methods by which collars, particularly turnover collars, are produced with the decorative effects referred to.

Colored or fancy collars are commonly made from textile material in which the stripes or other pattern effects are printed or otherwise formed in straight parallel lines, These stripes or designs will extend at angles to the bottom edge of the collar, which in practice is always given the form of a curve, which is worked out so as to make the collar fit as comfortably as may be upon the neck and shoulders of the wearer. in the case of shirts having attached collars, the collar is commonly cut from the mate- =ial of which the shirt is formed, with the tripes of the collar either extending verically or in a general horizontal direction, nit without extending parallel to the curved.

ver edge of the collar. Parallelism of the pee with the curved lower edge of the colcannot be effected when the collars are 'nerely cut out of material having the stripes formed thereon in the ordinary way.

In accordance with the present invention, the collar is formed by special manufacturing methods in such way that the finished collar will bear a stripe or similar design 7 parallel to the curved lower edge of the collar. This design'will preferably take the form of a border elfect, comprising a stripe or the like parallel to and adjacent to the curved lower edge of the collar, or a panel effect in which the stripe or the like extends parallel to the curved lower edge of the collar, down into the pointed tabs at the front of the collar, then extends upwardly at angles parallel. to the slanting front edges of the collar. Furthermore, when the collar is to be attached to a fancy shirt, or is to be worn with a fancy or striped shirt, the design for the collar is so chosen as to utilize one or more of the stripes'or decorations of the shirt, in which case the shirt may utilize, repeatedly, only the stripe or effect which appears also on the collar or may make use of the same and of additional stripes or decorative effects.

In my application, Serial No. 7 8,116, filed December 29, 1925, for manufacture of collars, I have described certain processes by which collars may be manufactured with ornamental or decorative effects similar to those described herein. In the present application other manufacturing methods will be described and claimed. I

A feature of the invention comprised herein consists in forming the decorative design or in forming a stripe or the like as a portion of the decorative design on a piece of textile material, this stripe or the like-being so printed or woven, or otherwise formed, that it will be properly curved to extend substantially parallel to the curved bottom edge of the finished collar. A face strip forthe collar is formed from this material carrying the said design, and this face strip is placed face downward upon a backingstrip, after which the two strips are stitched together along a curved line, which is formed approximately parallel to the curved design stripe or the like previously formed on the material, which stripe will be visible through the material. This line of stitching will outline the bottom edge of the collar.

The strips are then turned about the seamthus formed, so that this scam will form the finished bottom edge of the collar with the design parallel thereto on the outer surface of the face strip of the collar, after which the collar may be cut and stitched in the usual way to finish the same.

Another feature of the invention consists in utilizing a preformed pattern for the collar design. In accordance with this feature of the invention, a pattern is first prepared having a curvature s0 chosen as to be approximately parallel to the curved lower edge of the various commercial sizes of collars of a given class, such as the various commercial sizes of mens collars. By the use of such a pattern, the necessity is obviated of having, for example, to form the design for one commercial size of collar on one printing roller and having to form similar designs on separate printing rollers for the other commercial sizes of collar which are to bear the same design. Having such a pattern, approximating the curvature of the lower edges of all the collars of the given class, this curvature may be followed by suitable methods of printing, weaving or otherwise forming the desired designs on the extile material of which the coll-as are to he formed The designs will preferably be formed as repeats on the textile material, with suitable spacing so that the collars may be formed from tne material, each with the desired design thereon.

Objects of the invention consist in the provision of improved processes for producing such a collar of the character referred to, and in the provision of improved process steps as will be more fully set forth in the following specifiation and will be particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

In order that the invention may be more fully understood, attention is hereby directed to the accompanying drawings forming part of this application and illustrating certain forms of collars made in accordance with the invention, and process steps by which the same may be produced, comprising the invention.

In the drawings:

Figs. 1 and 2 are front views of striped shirts with collars therefor, made in accordance with the. invention;

Fig. 8 is a partial face view of material. having a desired curved formed repeatedly thereon;

Fig. at is a partial face view of a portion of the fabric shown in Fig. 3, showing the outlines of. the collars which are to be formed from the material, each carrying the said design;

Fig. 5 is a face view of a printing roller by which. the design shown in Fig. 3 may be imprinted on the fabric; and

Figs. 6 and T are front elevations, partly broken away, showing steps in the manufacture of. the collar.

Referring first to Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, a collar 1 of the turnover variety may be attached to or worn with a shirt such as is shown at 2. The face portion of the collar is shown as having a decorative band or stripe 3 extending parallel to the curved. lower edge 4- of the face portion of the collar. this band or stripe extending all the way around the collar a shortdistance above the curved lower edge to form a border'decoration. As shown. this design 3 is intended to harmonize with the design of the shirt. For example, the shirt, as shown, is provided with vertical stripes 5 and 5 of different characters, and both of these stripes. as shown, are utilized in the border design 3 of the collar.

The design 3 in Fig. 1 extends completely to the inclined vertical front edges 6 of the collar. In a somewhat different style, shown in Fig. 2, the design of collar 1" may take the form of a panel design comtextile design prising a portion 3 extending parallel to the curved lower edge 4' of the collar, this curved bottom line of the design terminating within each point of the collar and con necting with an upwardly inclined stripe or line 3 parallel to each inclined vertical front edge of the collar, as shown. In this case, also, the stripes or design of the collar will harmonize with the design of the shirt 2 with which the collar is worn.

One method of forming the collar with a border design thereon such as is shown in Fig. 1 illustrated in Figs. 23 to 7 inclusive. A suitable curved design for the collars may, for example, be formed at suitable intervals upon the periphery of a printing roller 7 from which a piece of textile material 8 is printed with the repeated design. The design on the roller may extend in the axial direction of the roller as shown, or it may extend around the periphery of the roller, at right angles to the axis, in which case the design is printed on the goods parallel to the warp threads of the goods. As is shown in Figs. 3 and 5, this design, which is to form the border design for the collars, maytalte the form of a suitable curve shown at 9 on the printing roller and at D on the textile material. In these figures,

each curved design line is shown as being made of double length, in order to print the design for a pair of collars, one following the other across the material. That is to say, any one of the printed stripes 9 shown in Fig. 3 comprises a portion extending from one end to a central point and from this point to the opposite end of the design stripe, the curve at one side of the point 9 being adapted to form the border design on one collar, and the duplicate portion of the design stripe on the opposite side of this point being adapted to form the border design for a second collar.

Preferably. as stated, each of the desi'n'a stripes 9 and S) is made in accordance with a preformed pattern. which may be consid' ered as an exact duplicate of each of the de sign stripes 9" and 9 (or of one-half of one of the same). This pattern is worked out that the curve formed thereon, extending. for example. from one end of one of the design stripes in Fig. 3 to the point 9. will be practically parallel to the curved lower edge of any commercial size of collar ofa given class. That is; considering either the left-hand or the right-hand half of any one of the design stripes 9 this'mav be, for example, approximately parallel to the curved lower edge of all the commercial sizes of mens turnover collars, say sizes 12 to 1.8. the length of each of these linesbein; sufficient to extend completely around oneof the largest size of collar of the given class. Such a pattern is worked out by considerable experimentation inorder to obtain a Ill) the bottom edges of the various sized collars.

Having such a form, it is only necessary to use one printing roller, for example, forforming the designs for collars of the various commercial sizes, instead of requiring a separate printing roller for each different size on which the same design is to be imprinted.

In Fig. 4 is indicated a portion of the fabric 8 carrying a number of repeated design stripes 9 the outline of a suitable collar being indicated. at l in dot and dash, in proper spaced relation to the'design stripe 9 which is to appear on the face of the collai'. Each of the design stripes 9 shown in Fig. at comprises, of course, only one-half of one of the double desi n stripes 9 shown in Fig. 3. The outlines of the collars, shown 1 in Fig. 1, need not actually be drawn upon the material, these outlines merely being shown in the drawing to indicate the position of the design stripes in relationto the curved lower edges 4 of the face portions of the collars. The border design, shown at 9 in Fig. 4-, may be similar to or the same the border design indicated at 3 in Fig. 1 on the finished collar.

The individual collars are preferably manufactured as follows: A strip of material carrying one of the design stripes 9 and suflicient material surrounding the same to form the collar 1 is cut from the fabric.

8 and utilized as a face strip of'the collar, this face strip being indicated in Fig. 6 at 8. This face strip 8 is laid face downwards, as is indicated in Fig. 6, upon a strip 10, which is to form the backing strip of the collar, this in turn being laid upon a strip 11 which is to form the lining strip of the collar. In a two-ply collar, the lining strip 11 would, of course, be omitted. The strips thus being superposed, the three strips are sewed together by stitching 12 along a curved line parallel to the design stripe 9 which is on the underside of the uppermost stripe 8", and which is usually visible through the material. This seam 12 will outline the bottoinedge of the collar.

The strips are then turned about the seam 12 thus formed, as is indicated in Fig. 7 so that this strip 8 will be right side up, with the lining strip 11 between face strip 8 and backing strip 10. The three strips are then stitched together in the usual way along a line 13, which is parallel or approximately parallel and closely adjacent to the curved bottom edge 12 of the collar, this stitching also extending, as indicated at 13, parallel to each vertically inclined front end 6 of the collar. It should be stated that the'stitching 12, which outlines the bottom edge of the collar, is continued upwardly at each end, as shown at 12 in Fig. 6, through the three strips of material, and when the strips are turned inside out about the line 12, they will, of course, likewise be turned about the inclined lines 12. r

The collar may, of course, be formed integral with the neckband portion or attached separately thereto in any of the usual manners. Attachment of the face portion of the collar to a separate neckband'portion 1% is indicated in Fig. 7, in whichthe face portion of the collar is indicated as secured to a two-ply neckband portion 1d in a usual manner.

It will be noted that the process described is not limited to the formation of the design stripes by a printing process. The designs may be formed by the various well-known printing processes and also by various other known methods of forming designs on goods, such as by weaving, in. which case the shuttles of the loom willbe set to follow the curved design line 9 or the like and will weave the same as a repeated design across the goods. Similarly, various known weaving processes may be utilized for forming the design, such as the method in which colored yarn or other material may be laid in strips on the material to form the warp and the shuttles of the loom set to work through the yarn and pick it up along the curved lines representing the border designs of the collars to thereupon form such designs of thismaterial upon the face of the goods. Similarly, with silk filled material. or other material having contrasting filling, the shuttles may be set to pick up this filling along the predetermined curved line to form the design thereof upon the face of the fabric. It is not deemed necessary to additionally illustrate the methods referred to, since the manner of manipulating the shuttles of a loom to. cause them to weave desired designs is well known.

In the manufacture of collars having a border design, such as is indicated at 3 in Fig. 1 and at 9 in Fig. 3, collars of various commercial sizes may, of course, be formed by utilizing a greater or less length of material for each collar containing a greater or less length of the desired design stripe 9 If, however, the collar is to bear a design of the panel effect illustrated in Fig. 2, the upwardly extending portions 3 of they design should extend parallel to the front edges 6 of the collar at a given distance therefrom for each size of collar. In this case the desired design may be obtained, for example, by preparing a separate printing roller bearing the design for each separate size of collar or otherwise, as is explained in my application, Serial No. 78,116, referred to above. In this case, the cutting lines for each collar blank may be formed on the printing roller, in addition to the design stripe, and printed on the goods. The printed cutting line for a collar having a panel. effect design is shown in dotted lines at the bottom of Fig. 4, at 15, in which it will be noted that the cutting line 15 is parallel to, and outside, the curved design stripe 9, and at the ends extends parallel to the verticalv edges, and also parallel to the upwardly extending portions of the design stripe. By this means the proper centering of the design upon the collar blank is assured, and enough material is left between the cutting lines and the design stripe for stitching the seam about which the pieces are to be turned. Marks 16 may likewise be printed on the goods to indicate locating pins for holding a stack of textile sheets bearing the designs, to exactly superpose the same, for cutting a number of pieces at the same time.

It should be understood that the invention is not strictly limited to the exact de tails of. construction and of method which have been particularly described, the invention being considered as having a considerable scope, as is indicated by the accompanying claims.

I claim:

1. A process of manufacturing collars, comprising, forming on a piece of textile material a decorative design comprising a stripe or portion properly curved to extend substantially parallel to the curved bottom edge of the finished collar, superposing upon a backing strip, a. face strip, formed from said material and carrying said design, said face strip being face down on said backing strip, stitching through said strips on a curved line approximately parallel to said curved design stripe or portion, to outline the bottom edge of the collar, reversing the strips about the seam thus formed so that the said design stripe or portion will be parallel to the curved finished bottom edge, and finishing the collar.

2. Av process of manufacturing collars,

comprising forming, on a piece of textile material, a decorative design comprising a stripe or portion curved in accordance with the curvature of a pattern, which pattern is of a curvature so chosen as to be approximately parallel to the curved lower edge of each of the various commercial sizes of collars of a given class, superposing upon a backing strip a face strip, formed from said material and carrying said design, said face strip being face down on said backing strip, stitching through said strips on a curved line approximately pa 'allel to said curved design stripe or portion, to outline the bottom edge of the collar, reversing the strips about the seam thus formed, so that the said design stripe or portion will be parallel to the curved finished bottom edge, and finishing the collar.

A process of manufacturing collars comprisin forming, on a piece of textile material, a decorative design, comprising a stripe or portion properly curved to extend ibstantially parallel to the curved bottom edge of the face portion of a finished turnover collar, and forming outside cutting lines for a collar strip on the material, which lines extend in part parallel to the said design stripe or portion, cutting out, along said cutin lines, a strip for the face portion of a collar, carrying said design, superposing said strip. face down, on a backing strip, stitch- .ing through said strips on a curved line approximately parallel to and outside of said curved design stripe or portion to outline the bottom edge of the collar, reversing the strips about the seam thus formed, so that the curved design stripe or portion will be parallel to the curved finished bottom edge of the collar, and finishing the collar.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

JOSEPH KAHN. 

